The Number One Reason Hauls Get Returned
Ask any buying agent veteran what goes wrong most often, and the answer is almost always sizing. A US large and an Asian large are completely different garments, and if you order your usual size from Taobao, Weidian, or 1688, you're likely to end up with something that fits your younger sibling instead of you. The good news is that this is one of the most avoidable mistakes in the whole hobby — once you understand how the sizing actually works.
Why the Numbers Differ So Much
There's no single "Asian size" and no single "US size," which is exactly why confusion reigns. Different countries, brands, and even individual sellers use different grading systems, so a blanket rule like "always size up twice" is only a rough starting point. What's true across the board is that East Asian ready-to-wear tends to be cut for smaller average frames than Western sizing, so the same letter or number usually corresponds to a smaller garment.
| US Size | Approx. Asian Size | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| XS | M | Often 1–2 sizes up |
| S | L | Common starting point |
| M | XL | Check measurements |
| L | XXL | May not exist on some pieces |
| XL+ | XXXL / custom | Range thins quickly |
Stop Using the Rule of Thumb — Use the Chart
The single most important habit you can build is reading the size chart on the listing itself. Nearly every reputable seller posts a table of garment measurements in centimeters. Letters and numbers are marketing; centimeters are reality. A garment's chest, length, and shoulder measurements tell you far more than any size label ever will.
A real example: two sellers on Taobao might both label a jacket "L," yet one measures 110cm across the chest and the other 120cm. If you size by letter alone, you'll get a coin-flip fit. If you size by the chart, you get it right every time. This is the single biggest upgrade most shoppers can make.
How to Measure Yourself Properly
- Chest/bust: wrap the tape under your arms across the fullest part, keep it level, and don't pull tight.
- Shoulders: measure across the back from one shoulder seam to the other.
- Length: from the highest point of the shoulder down to where you want the hem to sit.
- Sleeve: from the shoulder seam to the cuff.
- Waist/hips: at your natural waist and the fullest part of your hips, keeping the tape comfortable.
Compare those numbers against the seller's chart, and if the chart is missing or vague, that's a red flag — move to a seller who provides one. This is where a tracking habit pays off: I log my own measurements once in sheetquik.com, so I never have to re-measure every time a new seller posts a chart in a slightly different format.
Footwear Is a Whole Separate System
Shoes are where sizing goes fully off the rails. Chinese shoe sizes use their own numeric system that doesn't map cleanly to US or EU, and a "size 44" from one factory can be a full size off from another. The only reliable method is insole length: most listings show the insole length in centimeters, and you should match that to the length of your longest foot plus a little room (usually 0.5–1cm, depending on whether you want a snug or relaxed fit). Never order shoes by your US number — always by measured insole length.
Category-Specific Quirks
- Tops and tees: the most common 1–2 size jump; oversized Asian cuts can still run true, so always check the chart.
- Pants and jeans: waist is often listed in cm and runs small; pay close attention to the rise and hip measurement.
- Jackets and outerwear: length and sleeve matter most, and Asian cuts are frequently shorter in both.
The Bottom Line
Assume nothing, measure everything. Sizing up one to two sizes is a fine starting hypothesis, but the size chart is the actual answer, and insole or garment centimeters are the only numbers that don't lie. Combine careful measuring with a saved set of your own dimensions — the habit behind Oopbuy Spreadsheet — and you'll cut returns to nearly zero. That's the difference between a haul you love and a wardrobe for someone else.